Hamburg and on to the Lufts

After arriving to Hamburg on Friday and taking a day to walk around the city a bit and take our first shots at the local food and drink, we regrouped for an official city outing on Saturday. We targeted a few locations that seemed intriguing, but we were able to bounce around and stop anywhere we wanted by the end of the day after mastering the subway system. The Germans are definitely on to something with their public transport, at least in Hamburg and in their rail service. The subways were clean, timely, and not once did we have a ticket checked. 

We first visited the enormous gothic St. Nicholas' Church in the middle of Hamburg. It has an incredibly long history, but is preserved in it's current form as a memorial to victims of persecution in Germany during WWII. This is fitting because apparently it was allied bombing that brought it to it's current state of (maintained) ruin. Once the tallest building in the world, it provided the main target for bombs dropped from planes above, which killed 35,000 people and destroyed most of the city. It was haunting more than anything else. We have wondered how Germany views it's own history and the plaques and explanations at St. Nikolai's shed some light on the complicated awareness within its culture of being both victim and persecutor. It was hard not to leave feeling drained and frightened of the increasing intolerance that persists in pockets of America. In a bad economy, with a downtrodden and uninformed populace, Hitler stoked fear of an easily-targeted Other, got support from the country's elite, and democracy fell. That progression was laid out very clearly at the memorial, and it was unnerving to stand in the church's shell considering the implications. We hope to see Dachau on our way down to Switzerland, though hope is the wrong word for it. We are here, and we should see it. Anyways, on with the pictures.

Perhaps this will not show well on the web, but this summary captured a somber take on the destruction.

The Church spire, the only part that survived the bombing. The thing loomed. We walked two blocks away before getting a clear camera shot.

A view from the spire, looking at the Rathaus, which is the term for the governmental building. 

Again, this may not carry over well through the web (a picture of a picture), but this is roughly the same view after the bombing raids. 

This was a sculpture at the base of the spire, called The Ordeal. 

By a Hamburg sculptor, the bricks in the base were from the concentration camp located immediately outside Hamburg 

The inscription at the bottom of The Ordeal.

We walked around dazed for a bit and then got on the train and went to a bar that makes their own beer and drank and sat. For the exact opposite kind of exploration, we then went to St. Pauli, the region of Hamburg known most for it's wild party scene and music culture. Good lord. This place was insane. It is not only the center of clubs, bars and performance spaces, but it also holds EXTENSIVE adult entertainment offerings, ranging from pornography being displayed in the streets to Hamburg's regulated, legalized Red Light district. The guidebook said it would make Vegas look like the Vatican and that was somewhat of an understatement. We went by during the day, stopping at a few noteworthy bars along the way, and then returned later at night to see a Canadian rock band play at the Indra; the club that gave the Beatles their start. We rocked out and had a drink and it was glorious.

We'll estimate that 95% of those signs were selling some kind of vice. 

Again, a madhouse. Note that the far-right sign says "Cruising: Dark & Playrooms; Jail & Slingrooms" We're not sure what any of that means, but we'll bet our guesses were spot on.

The Indra

How can one not air guitar at this place?

We walked back along Hamburg's bustling harbor. 

After going back out at night, we returned before it got too crazy and got some sleep before loading up on the train on Sunday and heading off into the rural areas west of Hamburg, traveling through Lunenberg and Dannenberg before being picked up by our first host, Marcel Luft. More on that to follow!

Hamburg Arrival

Our last drink stateside 

We arrived in Hamburg at 10:30am local time. We decided to begin our travels by navigating the subway. After some deliberation and quite a few glances at the map, we purchased tickets and began our trek to our hotel. 

Not the NYC subway performers we're used to.

Hamburg is a beautiful city.  It has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined. 

We spent our first afternoon walking the streets of Hamburg in search of some German fair. 

Weiner Schnitzel (a fried veal cutlet with delicious bacon flavored potatoes) and Labaskaus ( a traditional dish of Hamburg consisting of corned beef, beets, and potatoes topped with a fried egg) Dave's Labaskaus also came with a very pungent pickled fish - an acquired taste for sure. 

Dave's first drink in Europe. 

After our first hot and delicious German meal we returned to our hotel to rest. A long day of travel, coupled with some serious jet lag, left us exhausted. 

She Walks in Beauty

 An exerpt from:

She walks in beauty

by Lord Byron

She walks in beauty, like the night

of cloudless climes and starry skies:

And all that's best of dark and bright

Meet in her aspect and her eyes:

Since our last entry we have spent more time on the road than at home, and while future entries will cover those trips, today I must write about the latest 9 hour trip to Reynoldsburg, Ohio, and the reason we took this journey - my sister Rose.

Last Friday my sister Rose graduated from the Mental Health and Rehabilitation Program at Columbus State - an accomplishment most deserving of the pomp and circumstance of a formal graduation.  This graduation ceremony was nothing like the stiff, self congratulatory ceremonies I've previously attended (and been a part of).  This was a graduation ceremony where every member of the graduating class had a story rife with obstacles, triumphs and difficulties.  When we walked into the auditorium the excitement, the overwhelming pride for the graduates and the promise of the future was palpable. Just stepping into the auditorium brought tears to my eyes.  As we took our seats an older man in front of us immediatly began to cry. "That's my mom, he said. She's done so much. I'm so proud of my mom."  Behind my tears I could only echo his sentiment. That was my sister.  Brave, strong, patient, determined and beautiful. I have always stood in awe of my sister Rose. Rose is my real life super woman. 

Rose, walking down the isle. Her smile says it all. 

The ceremony was perfect. It was real.  As the graduates walked the aisle family members shouted in joy for their loved ones. There was no request to hold back applause or praise and no famous speaker to deliver a generic "go out and cease the world" speech. Instead, each speaker spoke from his or her heart. The college president shared the stories of many of the graduates. Men and women who had overcome challenges and were moving forward - taking control of their lives in new and promising ways. The valedictorian shared his own story of dropping out of highschool and overcoming substance abuse.  The commencement speaker was a well loved professor, who spoke from his heart and reminded the graduates, reminded all of us, that if you want something badly enough, you'll give every part of yourself to get it and that if you commit, you will achieve.  Rose has done and continues to do just that. I'm lucky to have a sister so committed to bettering the world. There are few people out there who are willing to give of themselves the way Rose does. She is the thermostat the speaker spoke of. Rose does not just measure temperature, she changes climates.   I am honored to call her my sister. 

My superwoman - Rose Marrero

 

 

Rose has chosen to continue her education. She's dreaming big and I cannot wait to see the heights to which she will soar. Rose has a big heart and very strong shoulders. She will continue to work with teens in rehab and lock down facilities. Rose plans to pursue another degree at Ohio State University, but more importantly Rose plans to make a difference in the lives of teens who need a strong, confident, smart woman like my sister to help them find their way again.

Rose and mom just after graduation.

An excerpt from

She walks in beauty

by Lord Byron

And on that cheek, and o'er that brow,

So soft, so calm, yet eloquent

The smiles that win, the tints that glow,

But tell of days in goodness spent,

A mind at peace with all below,

A heart whose love is innocent

Coming to a Close

In just a few days the New Hampshire phase of Our Year will come to a close. We'll say goodbye to the animals we've cared for, the people we've bonded with, the gardens we've tended to and the bounty of fresh, delicious foods we've enjoyed. For a big city girl like me, my time here has been a pleasantly enriching surprise.

 

Beautiful Lake Willoughby, in northern Vermont.

 I learned quite a bit. For example:

-David has many talents...

He can also juggle despite my valiant attempts to distract him.

He can communicate with chickens, even though this one is stonewalling him.

-I like dogs. Especially this sweet one - a welcome part of our house sitting duties.

- I'm not too bad at lawn games. Croquet and bacci ball are particularly fun with a refreshments cart (even if the house is but steps away).

- It's important to keep an eye on the zucchini, especially after a good rain. We found quite a few submarine sized veggies in the garden.

- In the case of an impending storm, stay home. A pleasant mountain hike can quickly derail when the lightning begins.

My summer in New Hampshire was rather different than I envisioned. With the absence of television, and the distractions of urban life came the opportunity to read, to learn, to cook, to reflect and ultimately to connect. Acworth truly marks the beginning of Our Year for me. I'm excited about whatever else may be in store.

Harvesting Vegetables

Later in our New Hampshire stay we had training in house-sitting, looking over the estate of our good friends the Lords for two weeks in August. They left for vacation right as many parts of their garden were producing, so we were tasked with using as many veggies as we could. Fresh cukes, zukes, squash, all were good, but the enormous bounty of green beans offered more preserving opportunities. We tried our hand at one of our favorites to eat, dilled green beans. The recipe came from an excellent book on preservation, Putting Food By.  Find the recipe for Dilly Beans in our recipe page. We also learned about the onions, garlic, broccoli and greens we were able to harvest and enjoy. The onions and garlic we dried out for storage, while we briefly flash-boiled the broccoli before freezing it, which is a good technique for freezing many types of vegetables. We paid the Lords back with some dilly beans, who will hopefully report on how they turned out. Not soggy we hope.

Dilly Beans ingredient rundown: deluxe glacial himilayan salt, red pepper flakes, fresh dill heads, fresh garlic, and crisp green beans. All fresh, and if we count this guy and ourselves as part of a global community, then all local.

Pint Jars in boiling water bath (10 minutes max!); 'bout two inches of space above tops of the jars

Killer mason jar tongs allow for easy extraction. Guy Fieri sponsors our equipment line.

A trip to the Bog

During our stay in South Acworth, we had two friends come visit us from NY. Angela and Jamilah had a genuine camping experience as our tent guests for two nights, and for a local excursion we went to the Philbrick-Cricenti Bog.

It is a nearby natural wonder, a funky and creepy place to learn all kinds of hands-on stuff about a bog. It is great to see the local groups that have organized to preserve the space.  

For me, the word bog conjures scenes from fantasy novels filled with misty forests, bubbling dark pools and nebulous forces. And while there's something disconcerting about stepping onto the spongy moss, the bog we visited was not quite the dark and sinister Fire Swamp I had imagined.

Angela, David, Jamilah and I set out to explore the Philbrook, Cricenti Bog in New London, New Hampshire.

Remember, you must stay on the path.

Why? Pull up the stick...

...below you are 20 feet of water. There are whole cows and horses down there, probably pretty well-preserved.

The Quaking Loop

The ground shakes and jiggles beneath you like a waterbed. A path two planks wide provides support.

Jamilah, David & Angela... all staying on the path.

California Practice

We spent two weeks in Oakland visiting Chris and Tania, my (Dave's) brother and sister-in-law. We had a fantastic time with them, enjoying the local scenery around Almeda and Berkeley. Their neighborhood is really quite nice despite some rougher elements and we spent a great deal of time at their newly purchased house, helping them in the early phases of lawn construction and exterior tweaking. Several of our anticipated workstays will involve similar kind of labor during parts of our days, so we welcomed the elementary carpentry work that was done to enclose their washroom, as well as the rubble clearing and brick retrieval that cleared the way for their ultimate dream patio. 

We look forward to seeing what happens in the final execution but it was great to be there and contribute to Chris and Tania's home. We're hoping to entice them into a visit at some point later in the visit so look for them to show up again in these pages.

Dave and Christina, wedding reception-ready

At right, the man of the hour Evan Jones, plus some of his wedding party, plus Bradts

Aforementioned Bradts, thoughtful and capable.

Orienting ourselves on an Oakland freeway; I was thinking The Matrix Reloaded but Christina went with The Scream 

Wook and Bradt construction, Door 1

Wook and Bradt construction, Door 2

Laying groundwork for brick laying